New to RRR and had a few questions..........

[Obsessed]

Hello everyone. I have a few questions and this is gonna be a long post because I'm gonna cover some things that have led up to this point.

Some of what I'm gonna say is gonna get me flamed and I know so first.

I'm currently working on a build that I've been working on forever (most of it was sponsored to me). It's taken a lot longer than I have anticipated because of real life obligations and just no time to complete it. I'm finishing it though because I want to see it through and I'm happy with the hardware I have in it atm so.

As far as hardware goes I have a

Q6600 3.6ghz 1.272vcore - Swiftech XT (block given to me)
Asus Maximus Formula II with the Swiftech NBMax on it.
4870 with an EK Full cover nickel plated block (block also given to me)

I have the Q6600 and the Northbridge on the triple radiator (given to me) which I believe is the Aqua Computers Airplex XT 360 (or Pro 360, can't remember).

I have the Vid card on a loop with a Swiftech MCR220-QP.

I was also given polycarbonate compression fittings, tubing (3/8" black) red wire sleeving (which I used to sleeve the fans and PSU and anything else I could sleeve) and the Typhoon III reservoir (yes I've seen the sticky and know how you guys feel about it, but let me finish.............) by Geno.

Since I've been given the Res I've seen reports of it cracking and seen other things about the bullshit review that skinnee did on it so I'm not going to be using it. Also the polycarbonate fittings aren't feeling that great to me. They seem decent enough but I'm very heavy handed and I've actually broken 2 off in waterblocks (don't know how I've done it but yeah).

Last bit of fun information is that my D5 is dead as a doornail. Not sure why, the bearing is still there and I haven't done anything to fuck it up, that I know of. My solder joints are perfect (from shortening the wires and everything but anyways).

So anyways, I'm not going with the polycarbonate compression fittings or the T3 so I'm looking at getting some things to complete the build and I figured that since this place looks like it knows a bit about this shit that I could run it by you guys before I go posting on XS.

-----------------------------------------------

1. Since i have to buy a new pump and actually want to have two different loops to stop the high temps of the GPU getting into my CPU loop I was gonna go with the XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25in. Reservoir for Two Laing DDC's and 2 MCP355s. Or would the DDC 3.2 be better? Or are they the same thing? I've seen that they are the same.

2. Anyways. Since I'm going to be going that route and not using the compression fittings I wanted to still use comps and decided to get the bitspower ones, Still trying to decide on the matt black or these ones (since they are a bit cheaper on the whole).

3. But regardless I have to get 14 of them (if my count is correct) and I also needed to get a 45 degree fitting in either Matte Black or Shining Silver (still trying to decide) because on my XT one of the screws is bored out in the middle (was like that when I got it) and I can't rotate the damn top to allow for the comp fittings. So I figure I'd get the 45s (maybe two) and call it a day.

4. I was also looking at these BP plugs to replace the ones on the vid card block. Nothing wrong with them, just liked how these looked. (May not be these exactly but something like them).

Do you guys know anywhere else that may be cheaper as far as the comps and such (I only know a few wc stores online)? Sidewinder is about 20 minutes from me and they may arrange for me to pick it up in person from one of them so that I don't have to wait for the shipping.

Any thoughts would be appreciated and I hope to get to know all of you a bit better.

[Hondacity]

could you put numbers ... like

1. im new and fuck you too
2. cpu block shit is shit..what shit tastes better
3. pump is dead...zombify?

[Obsessed]

That better Honda?

Originally Posted by Hondacity

could you put numbers ... like

1. im new and fuck you too
2. cpu block shit is shit..what shit tastes better
3. pump is dead...zombify?

[Septim]

a very direct answer honda... lolz.

obsessed, that is better... and welcome to the forums. Welcome to RealRedRaider.com

to sum it all:

1. Sidewinder's is a good place to shop for watercooling parts, almost complete on everything. And since you live close by, call in first before picking up stuff.
Jabtech is also good.

2. xspc dual bay for dual ddc pumps is good too, ddc 3.2, the latest blue impellered variant, its very easy to convert from 10w to 18w operations.

3. you simply can't go wrong with Bitspower Fittings, only problems that have arisen so far are mostly due to User Error and User Mishandling...

4. with Bitspower fittings, you just can't get enough... or you gotta have them all....

[Obsessed]

Thank you.

Hope I'm welcome after a few months lol.

[Obsessed]

What's the difference between the 10w and 18w?

Is there any sort of instruction how to convert it. I'm down for modding something as long as I have an understanding of what I'm doing.

[Hondacity]

1. id rather go with single loop...1-2gpm is so fast the heat transfer from one block to the other is not that significant....also i don't think you do folding@home or projects@home that produce alot of heat... single loop is my recommendation..but you can also do separate loops...those do fine as well. id go for 3.25s..those are the newer ones. those are what i have the most

2. 3/8 5/8....will be cheaper..include tube costs..

i'm not really into the color of fittings others may dive in...

[Obsessed]

I've already got the tubing which is 3/8" 5/8".

As far as a single loop if I go that route which res and pump are recommended. The 3.25 is the Danger Den one right? Is it that much better than the 3.2?

I also figured it be nice to have 2 loops to keep temps cool, but if that is not an issue and the benefit is negligible of running two loops and I can keep the cost down significantly with 1 loop then I may go for that.

Thank you guys for the advice.

Originally Posted by Hondacity

1. id rather go with single loop...1-2gpm is so fast the heat transfer from one block to the other is not that significant....also i don't think you do folding@home or projects@home that produce alot of heat... single loop is my recommendation..but you can also do separate loops...those do fine as well. id go for 3.25s..those are the newer ones. those are what i have the most

2. 3/8 5/8....will be cheaper..include tube costs..

i'm not really into the color of fittings others may dive in...

[Septim]

yep, simple soldering job. instructions can be found somewhere here. will post link later after work.

just follow the rules here. and have an open mind.
because people here won't spoon feed you, and cuddle you.

[Hondacity]

the 3.25s are available at jab-tech.com mention realredraider on your order john would sure appreciate...

the 3.25s are 5% better than the 3.2s...the 3.2s are actually really good already...go for the swiftechs if you're going for 3.2s...gabe from swiftech replaces them on the spot once your pump is dead...

the 10w version might be the newer revision...and there is no modification for the new revision yet..so i don't suggest it now.. i heard that the the newer pcb's of the pump might support pwm... but i'd still go with 3.25s...they will die... but rma'ing isn't that hard.

[talladega]

Originally Posted by Septim

yep, simple soldering job. instructions can be found somewhere here. will post link later after work.

just follow the rules here. and have an open mind.
because people here won't spoon feed you, and cuddle you.

nicky might cuddle you.

LOL

[Obsessed]

Is that a bad thing?

Originally Posted by talladega

nicky might cuddle you.

LOL

[Obsessed]

I was looking around trying to find some information on another solution I was looking at and wanted some opinions.

Would there be any difference if I was

A) running 2 loops with a triple rad and the cpu and nb on one loop and the GPU on a double rad on a seperate loop

or

B) Running both rads and the three blocks as one loop with perhaps two pumps in the loop? Or even one pump if there is one that can do it effectively.

[Hondacity]

option b...thats what i suggested earlier

[Obsessed]

Originally Posted by Hondacity

option b...thats what i suggested earlier

I wasn't sure if what you mentioned earlier included both radiators.

If I'm to do that would you suggest just 1 pump or two?

Either way I'm gonna have to figure out what I want to do by Monday so I can get with Gary at sidewinders and order it.

[Septim]

1 pump can do it, 2 pump for added oohmp and redundancy... well since a dual bay dual ddc res is in the planning, why not...

but for now, 1 ddc with appropriate top should be able to handle that...

[ballz0r]

I reckon you were spot on with the xspc dual ddc... Ditch that t3 before it leaks and go for REAL dual loops rather than split

[Marne]

Originally Posted by Obsessed

Is that a bad thing?

oh good gravy trust us. that is a very very very bad thing. nicky is a thieving tranny fucktard who tried to rip off the hard work of several ppl and claim it as his own. plus hes just one of those creepy ass confused motherfuckers that dont know wtf he/she wants to be.

[RedRaider]

to RRRech

Like Septim mentioned, have an open mind and accept criticism and you will live this no-holds barred tech forum...

If you are only running one GPU, then go with a single loop with both rads. Get you a DDC3.2 pump or two with EK V2 top. If it was me, I'd run two in series. I believe Andy had problems with DDC3.25's dying a quick death.

If it was me, I wouldn't use a fucking bay reservoir, as I think they look like shit. Get you either a EK or BP tube reservoir and mount it directly to the top if the EK V2 DDC top by using a BP d-plug.

Tell Gary I said hi.

[Obsessed]

Thank you for your guys responses. I'll get together something in the cart and run it by you guys before I order it tomorrow. I'll post it in a couple hours. Thanks again for the help.

[ablatman]

Originally Posted by RedRaider

to RRRech

Like Septim mentioned, have an open mind and accept criticism and you will live this no-holds barred tech forum...

If you are only running one GPU, then go with a single loop with both rads. Get you a DDC3.2 pump or two with EK V2 top. If it was me, I'd run two in series. I believe Andy had problems with DDC3.25's dying a quick death.

If it was me, I wouldn't use a fucking bay reservoir, as I think they look like shit. Get you either a EK or BP tube reservoir and mount it directly to the top if the EK V2 DDC top by using a BP d-plug.

Tell Gary I said hi.

Fuck BP and EK tube reservoirs, get one of the IandH ones -- IIRC he said that gary had them on hand but hadn't put them up on the site yet; I just checked at Petra's and he's got them up.

[Obsessed]

What's so special about Iandh's res as opposed to the others?

If Gary has them on hand and just hasn't put them up yet I'll buy one if that's much better, if Gary doesn't have them then I'll pass because I need to have the parts on Monday to finish it Monday night.

Thanks for that information though.

Btw. If I buy a cylinder res and screw the DDC3.2 into the bottom of it will the res and the mounting clamps be able to hold it up (I'm not sure how much the pump weighs but I was thinking of mounting the res to the back of the mobo tray in my U2-UFO case.

Originally Posted by ablatman

Fuck BP and EK tube reservoirs, get one of the IandH ones -- IIRC he said that gary had them on hand but hadn't put them up on the site yet; I just checked at Petra's and he's got them up.

[ablatman]

IandH's res is better for a few reasons:

First and foremost is the clamps -- they're really heavy duty and made with quality metal parts as opposed to the cheap plastic everyone else is using. Petra's selling them for $25 USD per set. You get a pair with the reservior -- the version Petra is selling is the 175mm, and he's priced it at $55 USD. It's a bit more expensive than other similar tube reservoirs of around that size, but again it comes with a set of those clamps that seem to be so far above and beyond what anyone else is selling.

Next is the design -- the cap has around an inch clearance above the clear acrylic tube so that you can have the tube appear completely full without a lot of difficulty. This is especially useful when using dyes -- you don't get visible stain lines as the water level is above the top of the clear portion.

Next is the quality of the source materials, and the workmanship -- those end caps are milled from solid stock, and not molded like the current generation EK tops. -- and the tubes are a LOT thicker than the competition -- and the threads are cut on the OUTSIDE of the tube as opposed to the inside (which everyone else does), which means that you don't see the threads as they are concealed by the top and bottom caps.


Basically, it's a bit more expensive, but it's more expensive for a reason -- it's a small-scale product that has been designed to be hands down better than the competition.

[Obsessed]

Thanks for that info. I've contacted Gary about getting one.

Also, can I attach a pump to the bottom of that? Like the DDC3.2?

I'm looking at maybe getting another 655 and just using the 1 655 with a top instead of a 3.2 since the 655 has such reliability.

Originally Posted by ablatman

IandH's res is better for a few reasons:

First and foremost is the clamps -- they're really heavy duty and made with quality metal parts as opposed to the cheap plastic everyone else is using. Petra's selling them for $25 USD per set. You get a pair with the reservior -- the version Petra is selling is the 175mm, and he's priced it at $55 USD. It's a bit more expensive than other similar tube reservoirs of around that size, but again it comes with a set of those clamps that seem to be so far above and beyond what anyone else is selling.

Next is the design -- the cap has around an inch clearance above the clear acrylic tube so that you can have the tube appear completely full without a lot of difficulty. This is especially useful when using dyes -- you don't get visible stain lines as the water level is above the top of the clear portion.

Next is the quality of the source materials, and the workmanship -- those end caps are milled from solid stock, and not molded like the current generation EK tops. -- and the tubes are a LOT thicker than the competition -- and the threads are cut on the OUTSIDE of the tube as opposed to the inside (which everyone else does), which means that you don't see the threads as they are concealed by the top and bottom caps.


Basically, it's a bit more expensive, but it's more expensive for a reason -- it's a small-scale product that has been designed to be hands down better than the competition.

[ablatman]

I'd assume that it would be able to take the weight of a DDC 3.2 with an aftermarket top on it if you used a direct male to male G1/4 adapter on it.