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Old 01-30-2010, 07:01 PM   #26
Marne
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when i got to this forum i knew very little of the watercooling world. I had one prior fray in 2004 with my amd athlon xp 3200+ rig i bought from ibuyshit.com

they touted it as being the best shit ever and yea it sucked. even bought into a zalman reserator v1 system - oh yea EPIC shit.



after buying another prefabbed rig about jan 09 i decided to just say fuck it and learn how to do it myself. this forum has taught me more about this than i could have hoped to learn on my own. there is a shit ton of very well known modders on this site. they have been doing this since the idea 1st even came to be. we have real scientists on our team using their resources to figure out what does and doesnt work. i take what they say as correct until someone proves it otherwise. so far no one has.


stick it all in one loop and be done with it. i suggest you browse thru the build log section and see what im talking about. after a few rigs you will start to see why some things are better done the way ppl have been suggesting.
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Old 01-30-2010, 10:35 PM   #27
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Quote:
I have looked at all those at one time or another. I am currently debating the one or two pump XSPC bay res, as I only have the single DDC. If I had two how would you propose to run the loop?
just route output of res 1 to input of res 2, series them 2 pumps...

even if for now you only have 1, just use 1 side of dual ddc bay res for now, add another pump when you have it...

as for this being long term project, yep we all agree that this is an addicting hobby of ours...
(you may always say i need that new part, i want that new part, etc... )
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Old 01-30-2010, 11:20 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marne_Aeok View Post
stick it all in one loop and be done with it. i suggest you browse thru the build log section and see what im talking about. after a few rigs you will start to see why some things are better done the way ppl have been suggesting.
I have checked out a dozen or so builds and many are very impressive and way out of my league. As to doing a suggested I have no problem, I guess my 6 year old is rubbing off and I keep saying "why".

Thanks!
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Old 01-30-2010, 11:23 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Septim View Post
just route output of res 1 to input of res 2, series them 2 pumps...

even if for now you only have 1, just use 1 side of dual ddc bay res for now, add another pump when you have it...
What is the gain besides redundancy? Increased flow rates?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Septim View Post
as for this being long term project, yep we all agree that this is an addicting hobby of ours...
(you may always say i need that new part, i want that new part, etc... )
Yeah I have been doing this in a limited (budget/skill) way for about six years so I know I already have been bitten.

Thanks
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Old 01-30-2010, 11:44 PM   #30
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i don't know if more head pressure will apply with the xspc dual bay res dual ddc.

but i think it will.

also, if you're up to it, you could always relocate pump and res to be together with that symphony, away from the inside of your PC...
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Old 02-02-2010, 10:25 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Septim View Post
i don't know if more head pressure will apply with the xspc dual bay res dual ddc.

but i think it will.
Ordered and shipped from Sidewinder. Not sure if I am going to get a second pump at this time but at least I have the option.

Quote:
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also, if you're up to it, you could always relocate pump and res to be together with that symphony, away from the inside of your PC...
That was my original intent but I could not get anything to fit in the space available.
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Old 02-02-2010, 10:26 PM   #32
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I plan on taking apart the symphony and at least getting some measurements so that I can plan for a future replacement.
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Old 02-02-2010, 10:44 PM   #33
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the sooner you take out all Thermaltake Liquid Cooling items, the better...

radiator, blocks, & pumps, anything Thermaltake on them is a disaster waiting to happen... trust us on this..
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Old 02-02-2010, 11:24 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Septim View Post
the sooner you take out all Thermaltake Liquid Cooling items, the better...

radiator, blocks, & pumps, anything Thermaltake on them is a disaster waiting to happen... trust us on this..
The only remaIning Thermaltake parts are the rad, fans, and tower enclosure. The res and pumps were the first to go. I never used the block, tubbing, or fittings.

The rad will be the most difficult part to replace but the fans may cost more. Will update when I have some measurements.

Thanks.

Last edited by ensign.fodder; 02-02-2010 at 11:28 PM.
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:32 AM   #35
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Quote:
Radiator Dimensions: 4.7 x 1.3 x 28.1 inches (12 x 3.3 x 72 cm) all aluminum rad
Fans: Five120 mm fans rotating at 1,400 rpm with a 16 dB noise
that radiator really must go, the sooner the better.

for now, you're using heavy dosage of anti corrosion fluid, because you're mixing copper cpu block with aluminum heatsink.

even though you're gonna switch out that rad, make sure you're current copper base cpu block's interior is still ok, any sign of corroded material would mean that you'd have to change the block too...
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Old 02-03-2010, 04:49 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Septim View Post
that radiator really must go, the sooner the better.

for now, you're using heavy dosage of anti corrosion fluid, because you're mixing copper cpu block with aluminum heatsink.

even though you're gonna switch out that rad, make sure you're current copper base cpu block's interior is still ok, any sign of corroded material would mean that you'd have to change the block too...
While Thermaltake states that it is an all Alu rad it is not. The actual construction is a ten pass small diameter copper tube with alu fins. See this picture from the product page. So while I agree it needs to go and that I am running anti-corrosion fluid (Fesser 1) to make sure there is not a problem, it is not as bad as it sounds.

Thanks

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Old 02-03-2010, 04:59 AM   #37
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yep, also not as effecient in hear transfer.

well, if you're gonna go for thicker rads, you have Thermochill PA, and HwLabs SR-1, even a 360size rad and some decent fans would probably shave off your current load temps.

only problem would be that you can't close the back paneling, maybe ghetto tape for it... hehe... this will be a good project when you have the parts next time.
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Old 02-03-2010, 05:51 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Septim View Post
yep, also not as effecient in hear transfer.
Very true since I am not sure what the join material/method is so the transfer may suck.

Quote:
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well, if you're gonna go for thicker rads, you have Thermochill PA, and HwLabs SR-1, even a 360size rad and some decent fans would probably shave off your current load temps.
I was thinking about a 120.4 but one of the thinner models, attaching rad to the frame (metal channel/frame in middle) on one side and the fans in the other and sealing so that air is forced through.

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only problem would be that you can't close the back paneling, maybe ghetto tape for it... hehe... this will be a good project when you have the parts next time.
This way I might avoid the ghetto mod since the wife is already unhappy about a rad that is taller then my son.

Thanks!
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Old 02-03-2010, 06:06 AM   #39
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its in the corner, maybe reinforce the base so it don't tip over?
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Old 02-03-2010, 07:06 AM   #40
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its in the corner, maybe reinforce the base so it don't tip over?
It is already in a corner between a wall and the armoire. The base is pretty sizable so no worries there.
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Old 02-05-2010, 12:33 AM   #41
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Anyone know how to get stuff from Germany cheap/cheaper. I am toying with the idea of NB/SB/Mof cooling and the only set I can find for my Crosshair II is one from MIPS. Problem is that it is 119,90 € + 20,00 € shipping + 4% Paypal Tax = too much!

Link

Thanks!

If not then any other suggestions on some blocks that might work?

Thanks again.

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Old 02-08-2010, 05:59 PM   #42
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Default Update - Getting parts and some questions together

The build will have the following parts.

XSPC Dual DDC Bay Res
Dual Swiftech 355 pumps
Dual Danger Den Tieton
D-Tek Fuzion V2 CPU
ThermalTake Symphony Rad
Köölance QDC's
Tygon R3603 3/8"ID 1/2"OD tubing
Feser Compression Fittings
PrimoChill Liquid Utopia

Still needed parts.

Fittings to run output pump one into pump two
Possibly a full set of blocks for a Asus Crosshairs II 780a

Questions.

Given that my last build was...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marne_Aeok View Post
WTF happened in there. you can simplify that whole loop and cut down on mad unnecessary shit
What should my loop path be? It will still run out the bottom back and return near the same. This is required to get out the back of the armoire through an existing hole.

Thanks!

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Old 02-08-2010, 10:44 PM   #43
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single loop... Res - pump - cpu -gpu 1 - gpu2 - rad - back to res...

don't forget to change out that Tt Radiator when you have the funds...

so eventually when you do, you won't need those fancy "liquid" or anti-corrosion just distilled and some biocide or silver coils...
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:14 AM   #44
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Still need to figure out best way to connect output pump 1 to input pump 2.

Thanks!

NM--
Feser Rotary 45
Feser Rotary Compression

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Old 02-10-2010, 10:43 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Septim View Post
don't forget to change out that Tt Radiator when you have the funds...
Took apart the TT rad and did some measurements


Length from middle mount pint to edge. The screen/filter attaches to the outside support so there is a little more space then the measurement to fit a new rad in there.

Measure of the fan side just to make sure that the mount was centered and not offset to one side or the other.

Measurement across the middle support providing total mounting depth.

Length of usable rad space. Below this is more open space that could be used for a pump/res.

Total usable space including pump/res area.

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Old 02-11-2010, 05:59 AM   #46
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Hey man, could you put some labels on those shots?

the important parts are, the fan with radiator thickness, together with the backpanel.

but seeing as it has a Thin radiator, am sure that the back panel screws will need to be longer to accomodate thicker radiators...

it don't have to be 5x120, even the 4x120 PA480 or SR-1 480 should be enough, leaving you some extra room...
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Old 02-11-2010, 08:02 AM   #47
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Quote:
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Hey man, could you put some labels on those shots
Done and thanks!
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