What do you think of this painted white?

[Eddie3dfx]

I took out the rivets in the v2000 and popped all the aluminum out. (well I still need that one piece in the front bottom that holds the 120mm fan.

What do you guys think of this in a satin white or white pearl? So the lian li chassis will stay the same in terms of it's black brushed aluminum finish, but the inside aluminum panels will be white.

http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/5946/v2000tz0.jpg

I got my inspiration from a Marcus production (drool)

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w292/marcus000/TJ09/3.jpg

and


http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w292/marcus000/Powdercoating/DSCF0025800x600.jpg

[RedRaider]

White Pearl ........ :slobber:

[Kayin]

I love white in mods.

[Cutless009]

Yah I wanna do white for a built but nobody does Satin White and I hate shiney paint jobs on computer cases >>

[Eddie3dfx]

I love ashraf's white build with rustoleum high gloss.

http://royalsrealm.net/images/royalpc/029.jpg

http://royalsrealm.net/images/royalpc/033.jpg

I think for sure I'm going to try this paint..

Any advice on prepping and primer?

[bigslappy]

I like ! UV will way cool with a white inside

[Dagger]

your parts contrasting with the white interior should look great with or without uv. more pics please!

[bigslappy]

Can't see why ashraf had that 90 on that pump anyway When just rotating the pump a 1/4 turn would be way better

I hate 90's ..........
.........................................Damn Flow Killing Sum Booches

I mean with a pump like the DDC it's SOO small that you can Oriante just about anyway with that UN-Bracket he got .....

[Dagger]

Yeah and I think one 90 is equal to having "7" more feet of tubing.

[bigslappy]

[QUOTE=Eddie3dfx

Any advice on prepping and primer?[/QUOTE]

YEAH do right the 1st time go to the local Dupont Car paint dealer & ask that question .. If u don't have the spray EQ they have small glass bottles that take a can of pressurized air that sit on top of the bottle & they will sell pints of Pearl White .. they will also advise u on primers & setup
Think you could even do a clear coat with some Diamond dust in it !

[RedRaider]

1) Self-Etching Primer

2) Sand down flat with 800 grit wet/dry paper (sanding block is preferable)

3) Apply a sandable primer

4) Again sand with 800 grit wet/dry paper (sanding block is preferable)

5) Apply paint of choice in long sweeping/smooth strokes. No need to get into a hurry here. Apply a coat. Allow it to dry 2-5 days, then wet sand with 800 grit wet/dry paper.

6) Continue step #5, until you have the desirable # of coats. (I recommend at least 5).

7) You could then use 1500-2000 grit wet/dry paper to wet sand the final coat, then apply @ 3 layers of clear coat.

:D Hope this helps :D

[bigslappy]

1st clear coat is when ya du the sparkle then 2 or more on top of that ! .. the LAN girls will follow u home with a job like that ... But go to a Hotel as the Misses ani't gonna take the size 4 on Yer Door Very well ...

:p

[zlojack]

That's a nice looking case.

[Eddie3dfx]

1) Self-Etching Primer

2) Sand down flat with 800 grit wet/dry paper (sanding block is preferable)

3) Apply a sandable primer

4) Again sand with 800 grit wet/dry paper (sanding block is preferable)

5) Apply paint of choice in long sweeping/smooth strokes. No need to get into a hurry here. Apply a coat. Allow it to dry 2-5 days, then wet sand with 800 grit wet/dry paper.

6) Continue step #5, until you have the desirable # of coats. (I recommend at least 5).

7) You could then use 1500-2000 grit wet/dry paper to wet sand the final coat, then apply @ 3 layers of clear coat.

:D Hope this helps :D

2-5 days of drying? What kind of paint are you using? lol.
Good lordddd..

I'm going to do this and then just wait a day and then wetsand with 1500.
Hmm.. self etching primer.. wonder if home-depot sells this.
Yes, it helps :) thanks!
3 coats of clearcoat.. I like the sound of this :)

[zlojack]

I did a paintjob and I really noticed the difference when I left the paint to dry for a long time. It makes final curing time much less of a headache.

[Eddie3dfx]

Found more pics.

Our turkish brother Mr Fosgate built this monster..
(I also will paint the radiators white.)


Alright, you guys convinced me, 2 days of curing time before wetsand and recoat.

http://img238.imageshack.us/img238/4646/93056817iw6.jpg


http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/7963/77199438nh1.jpg
http://img395.imageshack.us/img395/873/49818017xr6.jpg

[RedRaider]

At least 2 days...

I'd prefer 4-5 days, between painting and wet sanding, especially with the colder temps this time of year. Maybe leave the pieces in tyhe garage under a heat lamp for a couple of days...

I want to see you do it right...:king:

[Kayin]

RRR, you painted professionally too?

In the summer months, i offer PC paint jobs locally, and this is about the same kind of advice I give.

Before painting, go to a paint shop and get all the stuff you'll need in one go. Believe me, it helps a lot.

Start with a red 3M scuff pad. Just ask for them if you don't see them, they know what I mean. Whatever you're going to paint needs scuffed well. This gives the primer something to bite into. Shoot a mist coat of primer afterwards, and check that everything is level and flat, no dents or bulges. If you have them, or the panel is flimsy and has ripples, use a high-build primer, and shoot a layer, block sand it to find the high points, spot spray with the primer and work from there. Once you get that panel right, spray one last good thin coat of primer.

For color, I use Dupli-Color paints whenever I can get them. for this, there's also a RustOleum Appliance Epoxy that's damn near indestructible. Both are beautiful finishes, but each should be sanded with 600 grit between coats, and I often do 20 coats of paint (thin coats, not thick-no runs or drips this way) before I'm satisfied with the coat of paint. If I want a deeper finish, I stop at about 10 THIN coats (normally takes two to just cover the metal) and then block sand 1000 and 1200, wash the panel, let it dry, wipe it down with a tack cloth and start spraying clear. Spray a coat, let dry two days, block sand 600, tack cloth, shoot again. I may build up 7-8 layers of clear, which lets me even do multilayer pearls or candies.

When I get my paint stuff found from my move, I'll write up a tutorial on all this. I worked many hours as a kid in my dad's body shop, and of all the stuff he half-assed, this was the one thing he never really did. His paint jobs are a thing of beauty.

Hope this helps...

[zlojack]

Nice advice guys.

I did my case mod last year in the winter and painting was a royal bitch.

I had to wait for clear days to even do a coat of paint :D

[bigslappy]

Yeah unless you got a garage & some heat lamps , regular 150watt floods work as well , Painting in the winter is a bitch .. you might find it's easier to just Powder Coat the Mother what u pay in coin u will save in time ... they do white pearl in powder coat BTW .....I know yer thinkin wait till summer ? & all those coats that will take months ... Powder Coat it ,they do that in an oven

[Sniper]

Mmm white!

[mcoffey]

White insides and ano black exterior, very cool looking. Nice paint job too.

andyc

[NAekuh]

just a warning about white interior.

the reason why many of us dont use it, is because it stains faster then you can OMFG i got a leak.

If you use dyes and you leak, it will stain uber fast.

If you room is dusty, it will stain over time..

[bigslappy]

Yeah that's like me wearing a white shirt ..can't have it on ten seconds with out staining it some where .............

;p

[Xilikon]

White looks great, even better if it's powdercoated white :)

[Eddie3dfx]

I got a quote of $250 to powdercoat the 4 aluminum parts,...... so I went and picked up paint and primer ;)

Anyhow, I primed the fans and now I'm on radiator 1 :)

I am not in any rush, so like you guys suggested, I'll take my time and do it properly.

After the primer is done drying, I'll break out the wet 1500grit and sand away.

http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/6690/dsc01393il2.jpg

[bigslappy]

it don't take much sanding between coats ,the idea is scuff it up & remove the high spots (u will not get high spots if u spray even & lightly ) SOO the next coat has more surface area to stick to... it's easy but time consuming

[Eddie3dfx]

Slight Update.. I started painting the reservoirs..
I globbed paint remover over the swiftech and it peeled the paint off like it was jelly. (Gabe needs to invest in better paint methods)
I primed, sanded, and then painted the bix (didn't take the paint off)
The problem is I got a few runs and some dimples..
I resanded it with 800grit and just recoated it right now..

So I've been scanning the web for powdercoat deals and I think I found a few..
Do holes need to be plugged on the motherboard tray or will it permanently fill them in?
Tap screw holes before or after?

[RedRaider]

I would think the inside of the screwholes will be filled with paint...:shrug:

[Sniper]

yeah just re tap them after is all.

[evil-98]

i was trained in a pretty reputable auto paint

generally you need to prep your surface well first, depending on the material of course
metal is probably one of the harder materials, as well as plastic. Self etching primers are
nice but not always necessary. always match your primer to your base color. if you want
to paint white, then you need a extremely light primer (grey) or if you can get a white
primer. darker colors will bleed through and affect your final product. for metals the best
and easiest thing to do is to get the frame sand blasted at like 150 grit. this way your
surface is completely randomized and pretty close to be perfectly prep aside from making
sure the surface is clean. then i would just blast it with a compressor and tack cloth it well.
metal will expand obviously and it will take paints better when warm, normally i heat up the
booth before shooting metals but you dont have too. for a computer case it wont make that
big of a difference. now i would just prime it well. since all the surfaces are smooth and flat
unlike car bodies and other freeforms, all i would do next is scotch brite the surface alittle.
of course after it has completely dried, which is like 30+ mins in the booth @ 90-100+ F.
the scotch brite helps clear the surface and smooth out the primer. after that id tack cloth
it again and start the base. most paints is not completely opaque so the primer will show
through. but if you have the correct combination of primer/base/top you should have the
result you are looking for.

just to shorten things up

after your first base, which if done right is the only layer you will need i lightly scotch brite
the surface again and tack cloth again and spray on a heavy wet coat of clear. once the
clear drys i color sand the surface for a nice smooth surface for clean reflections. once the
top is on most of the time the color tends to darken, that is because the actual index of
reflection is changed from a matte surface which spread all light to a glossy surface which
focuses it into a reflection. with white, if you had a dark primer this is where it would show.
your white will easily become a pale grey, which isnt always bad but i know i hate it.

so

1. sand blast all surfaces to 150 grit
2. clean surface (tack cloth compress air sometimes soap and water)
3. primer (a decent coat but not to heavy, just enough to cover all surfaces)
4. scotch brite all surfaces (just to smooth all any chunks and to make the sufaces alittle more abrasive)
5. clean surface (mostly tack cloth but compress air can help though not necessary)
6. base coat (a medium is usually all that is needed)
7. scotch brite lightly ( you dont want to mess up the texture too much, you will see it under the clear)
8. clean surface (mostly tack cloth)
9a. *add pearls or other special effects here*
9. medium - heavy wet coat of top (Clear coat)
10. color sand surface and polish

*depending on the result your looking for you may add a step for pearls or other effects.

hope that helps.

obviously let the paint dry between each step, and we dont all have sand blasters or a booth but im sure you guys could come up with substitutes.

[Eddie3dfx]

Hmm, the problem is I just have basic tools, nothing that I could sandblast my radiators with.
Basically I did what you said which was soap and water, along with a cleaning solution.
Your scotch bright idea was interesting.. I'll see if I have any.

I got 2 quotes, both $75-100 to powdercoat the insides. One ass actually quoted me $300 plus $200 for shipping (wtf??)

One wants to sandblast the other wants to media blast.
What is the difference in surface prep?

These pics were taken with a fuji f31 with no flash and bad lighting.. not bad.

http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/5212/dscf0883pb5.jpg
http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/8640/dscf0886og2.jpg

[Eddie3dfx]

Since this is a paint section, I figured I'd post this.

MNPC-Tech had painted one of my favorite cases, the Qmida v2.

before..
http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/Q9f.jpg

paint.. Plastikote Gloss Black Engine Enamel

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/Q9hPaint.jpg

after 5 coats with only 5 mins of drying in between.. (before wetsanding)
I am so impressed by this type of enamel paint. The gloss is simply powercoat like.

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/Q9z5.jpg