"FUFUFUFUFUFUFUFU" HD4870x2 Full Cover Block Review

[utnorris]

Ok, so this is my first review. It is a basic review of the FUFUFUFUFUFUFUFU HD4870x2 full cover water block. It's my opinion that you can only say so much about a water block beyond the usual performance, quality and ease of setup. So I will be focusing on those. Let's dive in.

We are all familiar with FUFUFUFUFUFUFUFU. They are a big company offering a wide arrange of products and a reasonable price. The VID-487X2 is the full cover water block for the HD4870x2. It is a nickel plated copper block. The biggest concern lately with FUFUFUFUFUFUFUFU is that they have been shipping some of the parts with steel plugs, well let me put this one to rest, the VID-487X2 that I received did not come with steel plugs. I am assuming they are nickle plated brass, but I cannot confirm this since I would have had to maul one to find out. It is nice to see that FUFUFUFUFUFUFUFU has stopped shipping the steel plugs, although I do hear stories here and there that some have received them. If you do, apparently FUFUFUFUFUFUFUFU will replace them for free.

Packaging:

http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/6228/img1453vn0.th.jpg (http://img259.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1453vn0.jpg)

The block comes shipped in a solid box wrapped in styrofoam and the block itself is in a sealed plastic wrapper. There are replacement screws, thermal pads, thermal greese and instructions. The plastic wrapper and stryrofoam keeps it well protected from getting damaged in shipping. However, take a look here:

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/553/img1464lq3.th.jpg (http://img402.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1464lq3.jpg)

If you look carefully by the screw you will see what appears to be nicks, which is what they are. There are a couple of places on the face of the block where these little nicks are. While it does not affect performance it is annoying and is something FUFUFUFUFUFUFUFU should address from a QC area.

The instructions that come with the block are for the most part fairly detailed:

http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/2561/img1454zj5.th.jpg (http://img259.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1454zj5.jpg)

And a schematic:

http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/5259/img1455gv6.th.jpg (http://img259.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1455gv6.jpg)

The instructions are fairly straightforward including some pictures. I did come across a couple issues. First, there are two types of thermal pads shipped with the block, one is a thinner gray pad and the second is a thicker pink/white pad. While I did like how detailed FUFUFUFUFUFUFUFU was about explaining where to place which pad, you do have to cut them to size. Since this is a dedicated block, it would have been nice to see pads that were pre-cut for the card. Second, was that the gray pad has a film that needs to be peeled off on both sides. You would assume that the pink/white would be the same and you would be wrong, it only has film on the white side. Also, the instructions do not tell you which side to put on the block and which side to put towards the card. These are minor issues, but for a first time installer it could become a headache. Also, I will mention that the block utilizes the original back plates from the stock cooler, so don't go throwing those away. :D

Moving on to the block itself:

http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/4813/img1456yr1.th.jpg (http://img412.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1456yr1.jpg)

http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/4803/img1459ik2.th.jpg (http://img248.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1459ik2.jpg)

It's a pretty heavy block, although I do not know the exact weight. The front has the name FUFUFUFUFUFUFUFU cut out with acrylic behind it. This strictly for show and in my opinion does not have that "Bling" factor to it like the EK acrylic blocks. Yes, you can see the colored fluid behind it along with some of the square pins, but it's too small to really be noticeable. I would have liked it better if they would just etch their name on the block and leave it at that. The quality is pretty good minus what I mentioned before. The back of the block that makes contact to the card is machined well, but not as good as other blocks I have seen and used such as the EK. One thing that FUFUFUFUFUFUFUFU did well was to install standoffs. There has been a lot of talk on how beneficial this is, but from the standpoint of someone installing a water block for the first time, having standoffs to prevent bowing is great, so kudos to FUFUFUFUFUFUFUFU for this.

Moving along, here is the card to be installed:

http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/3888/img1460ul9.th.jpg (http://img248.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1460ul9.jpg)

A top down shot:

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/3433/img1461yz2.th.jpg (http://img402.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1461yz2.jpg)

Pretty thick, in fact, so thick I couldn't install it with my SB being water cooled as the back hit the barbs, so I do not have any temps from the stock cooler to compare too. A review done by Overclockercafe.com had idle at 78c and load at 84c, so I will use those as a comparison when listing my temps.

Ok, here is the block installed:

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/9649/img1463do4.th.jpg (http://img402.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1463do4.jpg)

Looks ok, but nothing to write home about. And before you ask, no I did not take the block apart to look inside. This has been done on various FUFUFUFUFUFUFUFU blocks and they all have the same square pin layout instead of channels like EK or DD. the reason I hate to take a block apart is that I usually find it hard to get the o-ring to go back in just right, plus I was being lazy. :D

So, after all that here is the final results. I ran 3DMark06 three times and Vantage twice to get a load temp. I used GPUZ to record the temps. Ambient at the time was 23c. The loop consisted of the NB, SB and the FUFUFUFUFUFUFUFU water block. Pump was the MCP355 with XSPC res top and the rad was the dual Black ICE II. Stock settings, no overclocks.

Idle: DISPIO- 32c-33c
MEMIO - 37c-38c
Shadercore - 34c-35c

Load: DISPIO- 37c-37.5c
MEMIO - 54.5c-55c
Shadercore - 44.5c-45c

So pretty great performance, especially if you compare it to Overclockerscafe.com's review of the stock cooler at 78c idle and 84c load.

In summary, not a bad block. At $139.99 it is less than the EK's, but the DD is in the same range and the XSPC is lower at $99.99.

Pros:
Standoffs
Solid construction minus the QC issues I had.
Price competitively
Instructions better than others.
Great performance compared to stock cooler.

Cons:
QC issue with nicks on the face.
FUFUFUFUFUFUFUFU logo does not provide enough "Bling" factor to justify it.
From a cosmetic standpoint, on that GPU it doesn't really scream "Look at me", but that's a personal opinion.

[Septim]

hmm lolz... reserved #9

[Ricey]

Looking forward, Norris

Hi Septim !

[NAekuh]

norris its not the same code...

its like a funkey HTML. This isnt VB. Im leaning more to FT?

R3 what platform is this forum on? FuseTalk?

[zlojack]

You need to use lower case letters in the img tags and remove the links, I think.

[Septim]

very weird about [url] being case sensitive...

[Cutless009]

Id be interested to know if the standoffs are the proper length or if they are just for show like the ones on the XSPC

[HESmelaugh]

Nice review!

I personally think the block looks gorgeous, but that's all just down to personal taste, of course.
Anyway, thanks for reviewing!

[[Koolance] Dean]

Id be interested to know if the standoffs are the proper length or if they are just for show like the ones on the XSPC

We work hard to insure they are the proper length :)

[HESmelaugh]

Hi Dean!

Nice to see you in this forum! :-)

I installed a GTX280 waterblock for a friend of mine last week and the stand-offs are one of the reasons I recommended it in the first place. Takes the guesswork out of tightening the screws. :up:

[utnorris]

Quick update: I have found that the OEM backplate does not do a good job of getting rid of the heat from the memory on the backside of the card. The only vendor that addresses this is EK with the separate heat sinks. As a make shift solution I used Zalman video card memory heatsinks and placed them around the area that covers the memory. This worked quite well and any artifacts I was getting have gone away.

@ Dean- Please pass this info on to your development team for future block designs or maybe they can develope a heat sink add-on.

Thanks.

[Eternalightwith]

You mentioned that the HS + card is thick and interferes with your SB cooling. What about the FUFUFUFUFUFUFUFU CH25 http://www.FUFUFUFUFUFUFUFU.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=663

It is for SB cooling as it has the barb "ports?" all on the one side. :D

David
Peace :crack:

[Chilly]

If possible, yoou think its possible to get internal photo shots? Also is at all copper, or is there any other metals touching water in any point of the block?

[Cutless009]

If possible, yoou think its possible to get internal photo shots? Also is at all copper, or is there any other metals touching water in any point of the block?

The top part of the block that actually touches the water is acrylic, the metal piece is just a "cap" that goes over it.

[utnorris]

You mentioned that the HS + card is thick and interferes with your SB cooling. What about the FUFUFUFUFUFUFUFU CH25 http://www.FUFUFUFUFUFUFUFU.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=663

It is for SB cooling as it has the barb "ports?" all on the one side. :D

David
Peace :crack:

The original OEM HS is what hits the SB water block barbs. Other than getting a SB where the barbs sit to the left of the water block I think that the OEM HS will hit the barbs on a SB water block.

If possible, yoou think its possible to get internal photo shots? Also is at all copper, or is there any other metals touching water in any point of the block?

Sorry, I do not have internal pics since it's a pain to get the rubber gasket back on and I didn't want to have to mess with that. But Cutless is right, the top is acrylic with a metal top on top of that, so water only comes in contact with copper and acrylic. The biggest issue with any of the water blocks for the HD4870x2 is that the OEM backplate does not cool the memory on the back very well, but placing a few memory type heat sinks on it around where the backplate comes in contact with the memory solves that issue. The only exception to this is EK's water block which uses after market heat sinks that do a good job of cooling the memory.

[Chilly]

The original OEM HS is what hits the SB water block barbs. Other than getting a SB where the barbs sit to the left of the water block I think that the OEM HS will hit the barbs on a SB water block.



Sorry, I do not have internal pics since it's a pain to get the rubber gasket back on and I didn't want to have to mess with that. But Cutless is right, the top is acrylic with a metal top on top of that, so water only comes in contact with copper and acrylic. The biggest issue with any of the water blocks for the HD4870x2 is that the OEM backplate does not cool the memory on the back very well, but placing a few memory type heat sinks on it around where the backplate comes in contact with the memory solves that issue. The only exception to this is EK's water block which uses after market heat sinks that do a good job of cooling the memory.

Hum, If I want to watercool my 4870x2(and I do eventually) I want it ALL to be watercooled, both sides of the ram. I hope someone comes out with a solution to that :p

[RedRaider]

WOW...:wth:

This has to be the ABSOLUTE WORST REVIEW I have ever read...:bird:

You're too lazy to disassemble the block for us?? :bird:

[nicky.82uk]

so guess that gf295 still out proformance ATI...